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  #21  
Old 18-02-12, 22:26
Rob Stevens Rob Stevens is offline
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I'd recommend making the rear toe control arm part of the lower wishbone, it just looks like getting the inner pivot in the right place to be hard work, also I'd like to see some position adjustment so you can adjust the bump steer.
Also the X bit of the chassis in green, door bars if you will. Why not extend the bottom joint as low as possible.
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  #22  
Old 19-02-12, 00:39
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I had tried to incorporate the track rod with the wishbone Rob but because of the angle of the wishbone pivot axis it seemed to cause quite a bit of bump steer. To be honest I'm not 100% on how rear steer will affect things with it being FWD, so was just trying to get it as close to zero as possible. Part of me was thinking maybe some rear steer would be good to help point the front end round the corners but I don't want to make it too snappy..

For adjustment I'm thinking about putting the bolt axis for the inner track rod balljoint vertical (currently horizontal) then use some shims to move the pivot point up and down slightly to adjust bump steer.. it's quite sensitive to the height of that inner pivot so only a few mm is necessary.

The door bars do look funny like that, but it's because I'm keeping the original sills (or parts of them) so the door bars are as low as they can go. It will make sense when you picture how it fits on the car, honest, the main hoop is extending through the sill in the screenshot but it won't in real life.
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  #23  
Old 25-02-12, 19:20
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So, what an awesome day today has been! Despite waking up with a pretty bad hangover after only a few drinks last night (must be getting old), the sun was out so I downed some breakfast and coffee and made a day of it.

First on the agenda was finishing my new workbench, this is something I've been building up this week as I need something other than the top of a toolbox to work on! It's a bit of a beast, 2" 16swg box with a thick wooden top covered with a 3mm steel work surface - should do the job nicely!



Just needed to cut another sheet of wood then cut and fit the steel top. Took me a fair bit longer than I'd planned to do this, 3mm steel is a bit of a bitch to cut through and I had a lot of it to do! Got there in the end though and I'm really pleased with how it's come out!



So in the afternoon I turned my attention to the car..



Too late for a concourse project?



The floor is surprisingly heavy actually! Tomorrow I'll clean up all the leftover underseal, then it'll be ready to start welding in the box section reinforcements. More on that later.
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  #24  
Old 25-02-12, 19:38
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I should probably add that that isn't a moustache on my face, it's just muck!
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  #25  
Old 25-02-12, 21:19
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carl talbot carl talbot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameron View Post

So in the afternoon I turned my attention to the car..



.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iG_lNuNUVd4
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  #26  
Old 26-02-12, 21:32
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Is it wrong that I watched the whole of that video? *

More work today, though not quite as visible as yesterday's as I spent most of the morning removing all the seam sealer from under the sills so I could get to the spot welds and drill them out. I just chopped the floor out yesterday so the edges were still attached to the sills, but it's a lot easier to drill the spot welds without the floor in the way!

The undersides of the sills are absolutely plastered in sealant, I am getting pretty efficient at removing it now though!



Then a bit of cleaning and drilling later.. much better.



Cut a bit more of the floor out so I could get better access to the rear sections of the sill, not much left now!



Then offered up the box section beam and started to trim the rear sill section to fit, these taper towards the centre of the car so need to be cut away. I'm not sure whether I'll be reconnecting them to the sill beams later or not so didn't want to get carried away and remove them completely.



*I didn't really.
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  #27  
Old 26-02-12, 23:21
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Wire brush cup in an angle grinder makes short work of sealent.
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  #28  
Old 27-02-12, 00:01
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I'll be sure to get one of those to remove the underseal in the arches and other large areas. For the little fiddly bits like this I use an old screwdriver and a rubber mallet and chisel it out, it makes pretty short work of it actually.
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  #29  
Old 30-03-12, 20:53
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Well it's been a while as I've had to work my way out of a pile of other jobs, but I resumed work on this yesterday. I had a bit of bother with the sill reinforcements, in that I had originally planned to just cut some 50mm square RHS into a U-section and weld it to the insides of the sills, but it just warped like a banana the moment I cut a side off - must be some residual stress from when it was formed. I managed to find a friendly member of the 205 OC who bent some up for me from sheet, which has done the job a lot better!

I've been busy the past couple of evenings trimming them and welding them in place, they're looking much better now.



Today I also picked up my batch of subframe-chassis mounting bosses from the machinist, which are looking very nice.



These (as you may have guessed) will form the joint between chassis and subframes, there's a good positive location on them and will be bolted through when in place. The large ones are for the subframes, the small ones slip inside some roll hoop tubing and are welded in. The gap is for the load spreading plates that will hold the boot floor in.

Much more to come from here onwards.. this weekend I'll start work on the roll hoops.

Last edited by Cameron; 30-03-12 at 20:54. Reason: Typos!
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  #30  
Old 11-04-12, 17:38
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So last week I got the main roll hoop in place on it's footplates, since the rules on space-frames are kind of a grey area I decided it wasn't worth the risk of not passing scrutineering and made them as per MSA specs.

I had a good go at it again today after the Easter break..



The transverse beams shown above go between the feet of the roll hoops to stiffen them up nicely, and having those in place meant I could get the front hoop footplates and tubes in. It took a little while to get the top part horizontal and the front part vertical, and all fitting as close as I wanted it to be, but I got there in the end and it looks pretty good. I left a 10mm gap to the inner wing / door panel as I need to be able to get my TIG torch in there to fully weld door bars etc in.



The front roll hoop footplates look like this:



Eagle-eyed people will notice there is a 50mm section of the sill rails sticking forwards from the transverse beam, the reasons for this will become apparent later in the build!

Even eagley-eyeder people will notice the difference in welding techniques.. I use a series of hot tacks to do anything joining to the original bodywork, as gunk on the hidden side of the metal always blows out or pollutes the weld if you try and keep a seam going; fresh metal is a different story so it can all be done in one long run.

Finally I went round and welded up all the footplates etc, I won't be welding the roll hoops in place until the rest of the space-frame is in.



So that's probably the last bit of metalwork for a little while, as I'll be focusing on finishing the new suspension design and making any changes to the space-frame that are needed. Once I've got that pretty much sorted I'll get a big order of tube in and progress should go pretty quick from there!
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